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BUKHARA
One
of the Central Asian oldest city Bukhara dating back to 2500 years. The
name comes from Indian
Sanskrit word - Vikhara ("monastery"). The city thrived during
9 -10th century and was known as pillar of Islam. After two centuries
it was conquered by Jenghiz Khan in 1220 and fell under the shadow of
Timur’s Samarkand in 1370. A
second life came in the 16th century, when Bukhara was the capital of
Khanate during Shaybanid period with dozens of bazaars and caravan sarai,
over 100 madrasahs and more than 300 mosques. It was home of scholars
and scientists and amongst those are Ibne-Sina, Firdausi and Rudaki. The
present day Bukhara is a medium size city of 250,000 people and its historic
monuments illustrate story of the past 1000 years.
Labi
Hauz Labi
Hauz (around the pool), the most peaceful and interesting spot in town,
shaded by mulberry trees as old as the pool and people with street-sellers,
crazies, old men hunched over chessboards or gossiping over tea, and everyone
else with nowhere else to go. On the east side is a statue of Hoja Nasruddin,
a semi-mythical “wise fool” who appears in Sufi teaching tales around
the world. Next interesting place called, the Nadir Divanbegi madrasah
which was originally built as a caravan saray, but the Khan later
converted it into educational madrasah in 1630 AD. On the west side of
the square, is the Nadir Divanbegi Khanaka which was built at the same
time. Both are named after Abdul Aziz Khan's treasury minister, who financed
these in the 17th century. North across the street, the Kukeldash madrasah,
built by Abdullah Khan II, was at that time the biggest Islamic school
in Central Asia. What is left of the old town is the unique Jewish quarter
south of Labi hauz.
Covered Bazaars From
Shaybanid times, the area west and north from Labi-Hauz was a vast warren
of market lanes, arcades and crossroads minibazars whose multidomed roofs
were designed to draw in cool air. Three remaining domed bazars, heavily
renovated during Soviet times: Taqi-Sarrafon (money-changer), Taqi-Telpak
Furushon (Cap-makers) and Taqi-Zargaron (Jewellers) were among dozens of
specialized bazars in the town. They are returning tentatively to life,
with games of backgammon like shishbesh being played in the shade and new
shops to lure fresh consumers. Local people call the covered markets by
the following numbers: Sarrafon No. 1, Telpak Furushon No. 2 and Zargaron
No 3.
Kalan Minaret It
was built by Qarakhan ruler Arslan Khan in 1127, the Kalan minaret was
probably the tallest building in Central Asia (Kalon means 'great' in
Tajik). It's an incredible piece of work, 47 meters tall with 10 metre
deep foundations (reeds stacked underneath in an early form of
earthquake-proofing), which in past nine centuries has never required any
but cosmetic repairs. Jenghiz Khan was so dumbfounded by it that he
ordered it spared. It was also used as a beacon and watchtower, and the
Manghit Emirs threw criminals of it until forbidden by the Russians. Its
14 ornamental bands, all different, include the first use of the glazed
blue tiles that were so saturate Central Asia under Timur. Up and down,
the south and east sides are faintly lighter patches, marking the
restoration of damage by Frunze's artillery in 1920. Its 105 inner stairs
are closed to tourists, but special arrangements to climb may be possible.
A legend says that Arslan Khan killed an Imam of that time after a
quarrel. That night in a dream the Imam asked him, 'You have killed me;
now oblige me by laying my head on a spot where nobody can tread, and the
tower was built over his grave.
Ismail Samani Mausoleum Samani
Park is the town's oldest monument (completed about 905 AD.) and one of
the most elegant structures in Central Asia. The mausoleum of Ismail
Samani (the Samanid Dynasty's founder) apart from his own grave has the
shrines of his father and
grandson. Its delicate baked terracotta brickwork which gradually changes
“texture/shade” through the day as the shadows shift. Walls almost two
meters thick, helping it survive without restoration (except of the dome)
for almost 11th centuries. The bricks predate the art of majolica tiles.
Though dating from early Islamic times, the building bears Zoroastrian
symbols such as the circle in nested squares symbolizing eternity above
the door. Jenghiz Khan overlooked it because it was partly buried in the
dust for ages.
The Ark This
royal town-within-a-town is Bukhara's oldest structure, occupied from the
5th to 20th century. In 1920 Red Army destroyed it by bombing. Bits of it
may go back two millennia, though the present crumbling walls are probably
less than 300 years old. It has about 75% ruins inside except for some
remaining royal quarters, now housing a multi-branched museum. At the top
of the entrance ramp is the 17th century Juma (Friday) mosque, its porch
supported by columns of sycamore. Inside is a little museum of 19th and
20th century manuscripts and writing tools. As one turns right into a
corridor with courtyards of both sides. Firstly, on the left is the former
living quarters of the Emir's Kushbegi or Prime Minister, now housing a
seldom-shown exhibit on WWII and the Soviet period (including a little
mechanical diorama depicting the celebrated post-Revolutionary burning of
the veils). The
oldest surviving part of the Ark, the vast Reception & Coronation
Court, whose roof fell during the 1920 bombardment. The last coronation to
take place here was Alim Khan's in 1910. The submerged chamber on the
right wall was the treasury, and behind the room was the Harem (ladies
living). To the right of the corridor were the open-air royal stables and
the noghorahona (a room for drums and musical instruments used during
public spectacles) Now
there are shops and a tedious natural history exhibit. Around the
salamhona or Protocol Court at the end of the corridor are what remains of
the royal apartments. These apparently fell into such disrepair that the
last two Amirs preferred full-time residence at the summer palace. Now
there are several museums, including ho-hum pre-Shaybanid history on the
ground floor, and coins and bits of applied art on the top floor.
Mir-i-Arab Madrasah It
is a working seminary from the 16th century until 1920, but reopened by
Stalin in 1944 in an effort to carrying muslim support for the war effort.
It was Central Asia's only functioning madressa in Soviet times. Presently
250 young men mostly from Uzbekistan, enrolled for five years, normally
from the age of 17 or 18 years to study Arabic, the Quran and Islamic
law. In fact most classes are now held in the Kalan mosque, with Mir-i-Arab
serving mainly as dormitories. The madrasah is named after Naqshbandi
Sheikh from Yemen ( 16th century ) who had a strong influence on the Shaybanid
ruler Ubaidullah Khan. Both Khan and teacher are buried beneath the northern
dome. The tall pole with a horse hair tassel at the north end of the tomb
is a traditional marker for the graves of very revered figures in Islam.
The hand symbolizes the 'five pillars of Islam'. Note the door high above
street level, predating the Soviet excavation of much of the old centre
down to 16th century levels. Behind Mir-i-Arab is the small Amir Alim
Khan madrasah, built this century, and now used as a children's library. |
